Believe the Hype

Copenhagen has definitely made a name for itself when it comes to fine cuisine. The things coming out of the kitchen are impressive, delectable and delightful. And that holds up quite nicely at Relae... the Michelin starred and 45th out of the Top 50 restaurant in the World.

I searched this restaurant out specifically, as I was looking for innovative food, Nordic cuisine and a cost that wouldn't break the bank. It helped that a very successful food technologist friend of mine also recommended it. The experience was delightful and left me yearning for my next visit.

To start, you have the option of a dining room table or a chef's table. I don't know why you wouldn't opt to have a front-row seat to see the magic happen. At my perch overlooking the prep kitchen, I was mesmerized at the technique being displayed, the care and passion that was demonstrated... and friendly banter with the two chefs working directly in front of me. They filled me in on all sorts of things throughout the evening and checked in regularly on what I thought.

I booked for the first evening service, and actually ended up being the first customer at the restaurant (I guess I was excited to get there!) The choices are simple at Relae... pick 4 or 7 courses and decided if you want wine pairings or not. As the menu states.. let the chef take care of the rest of the choices and delight you along the way. This could be daunting, but I say just lean in and enjoy. And I did!

Moments after being seated, a sparkling glass of Eureka '12 from Loire arrived. Each wine that was served was thoroughly explained, and made a great repertoire of European wines. One of the two sous chef's running the pass quickly presented me with an amuse bouche that consisted of a buckwheat pancake folded taco-style to hold a pistachio and herb mix. Scrumptious and a great way to get going. Some freshly baked sourdough bread and olive oil also appeared to keep me company (and sop up sauces throughout the night.)

I experienced my first oysters ever as my first course. Deftly prepared right in front of me, the dish consisted of Limfjord oysters (local to Denmark), and leeks. Yup... I was a bit scared at first. But after my first bite I knew I would clean up the plate. The Cyprineart '13 Chardonnay from Bourgogne was tasty, clean and refreshing with this dish.

Following quickly, the second course were celeriac, almond and water cress pouches. Simply devine. They were full of flavor, a joy on the palette and quite enjoyable alongside the light, fruity Gneiss '13, Muscadet. 

For the third course I was surprised by how much I enjoyed a charred onion with pickled elderflower and a sauce made from the sourdough bread. Sopping sourdough sauce with sourdough bread was awesome! And the Italian Vinello '14 from Catalunya kept the spirits high.

Before my fourth course was brought out, one of the chef's (they all functioned as servers throughout the evening) brought out a nice cup of organic chicken broth, made from the meal I was about to have. With the encouragement of the chef, I skipped the spoon and just drank it down right from the bowl. Yum! Moments later I was presented my main... a Hegnsholdt chicken thigh which had been cooked for three hours and then finished with cabbage and fennel. Paired with a Varron '13 from Jura, this protein course was significant enough to satisfy but not too big to fill the stomach too much, leaving room for the remaining courses.

I was most surprised at my delight in the red beet steak that came next, served with charred kale leaves and a red wine reduction. To be honest, I thought I was getting a serving of rare beef. The char on the outside was just perfect and the rosy color played tricks on my eyes. (Or was that 5 different wines!) The beets were juicy, sumptuous, working well with the wine reduction. It had a slight acidity which was very appealing. This course was paired with the first red wine of the evening, a Rosso R '12 from Lazio.

A sweet Vej Bianco Antico '06 preceded the arrival of my cheese course... a Rod Lober (local cow's milk cheese) with orange zest and carrot skins. The chef recommended using the skins to scoop up the soft cheese... and I happily obliged. It was so good!

Finally, for dessert, the chef brought out a bird's nest! Well, that's what the roasted potato's with apple and whey looked like. Not too sweat, and definitely not savory. Just the right lightness and flavor for a dessert. The Aphrodite '13 from Loire was an equally tasty orange wine that accompanied this dish.

I closed out the evening with a cup of Ethiopian coffee and some smoked cream and dried citrus petit fours. A great end to a great meal.

On a chilly, Tuesday evening in December, my time at Relae was relaxed, unpretentious, but filled with exquisite food. And the price was surprisingly modest considering the number of courses and wines. 

I can't wait to go back!